GPS: Mathuradas Mills Compound
126 N. M. Joshi Marg
Lower Parel
126 N. M. Joshi Marg
Lower Parel
Tring: 022-2490 2065
Click: www.cafezoe.in
In & Out: Monday to Sunday, 7.30am to 1.30am
Damages: Rs 3,000 approximately for a meal for 2 with a glass of wine
Must-Order:Scrambled Eggs in Truffle Oil on Toast
Umami Quotient: Salty
They say all roads lead to god. Maybe gluttony isn’t divine but once in a while its equally satisfying when Mariam and I take separate paths to reach the same conclusion. We both have acutely tuned antennae to any new place within our GPS aka Juhu and southwards so when we bumped into Chef Viraf and Jeremie at the Irish Pub over a few beers in the first week of January and heard about their latest baby Zoe we couldn’t wait to get there. However in the meanwhile I hopped over to London to kick-start my new married life (ergo warning: there will now be reviews from the food capital as well to help all our intrepid travellers to suss out the best places to chow!) and Mariam popped over to Zoe with a set of her friends while I made my trip a month back when I was visiting Bombay. This review is an amalgamation of the two visits.
Bar-O-Meter
While my visit happened to be on one of the election dry days Mariam and her posse got luckier. They eschewed the cocktails for a bottle of Vallonne and were pleasantly surprised as Jeremie recommended this pocket-friendly domestic red wine over one of their imported selections. A classy touch never fails to impress us! However our virgin run-ins with their Fresh Lime Soda was a visit to the sugar factory and one of the most cloying versions we’ve ever had. We suggest they straighten out this basic cooler ASAP.
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| The Bar Photo- Mariam Mamaji |
Palate
For starters we like to keep it light so we had some misgiving about the waiter’s vociferous recommendation of the Aranchani and when it came our worst fears were proved right; it was mashed veggies filled with cheese and deep fried aka empty calories we try to avoid like crazy! While heavy drinkers might appreciate this greasy lining its not our cup of tea.
However the Chicken Liver Pate which came next soothed us considerably. This is Chef Viraf’s signature dish, which we have followed with our palates from the erstwhile Saltwater Grill to Table and now in Zoe. Its smooth and creamy with none of the sanguine aftertaste that badly made pate can have. However they seem to be rather parsimonious with the Melba Toast and refused us a few extra when ours got over! Scrimp on toast anyone?
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| Chicken liver pate Photo- Mariam Mamaji |
The Arugula Salad was perfectly fresh and crisp with a lovely peppery sweet sauce that set off the rocket leaves perfectly. Boldened by this we next ordered the Crab n Celery Salad. While it was delightfully fresh and crisp again the glass jar just had one top layer of crabmeat and an entire mattress of celery, which we had to chimp through once the crab got done (rather quickly). Scrimping again?
My husband for all his healthy eating ways has some strange fascination for pronouncedly junk food and one of them is Chicken Wings. He jumps at every opportunity to have them and needless to say we ordered them. Zoe’s version was spicy and full-bodied with a nice punch at the end, which goes well with cocktails or a glass of robust red wine.
However a Bengali and their eggs cant be parted for long (much like the French who I think Bengalis are separated at birth from!) and the Truffle Scrambled Eggs on Toast soon found their way to our table. Not only was the scramble perfect – fluffy, smooth and cooked without being dry, they were very generous with lashings of truffle oil that elevated this simple breakfast dish to divine proportions. We immediately ordered seconds, which is proof enough of its excellence.
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| Seafood Provincial Photo- Mariam Mamaji |
While me and my gang made a meal of starters alone, Mariam’s party proceeded to mains. Since they had a couple of vegetarians amongst them it was a great excuse to try out the otherwise neglected part of the menu. The Meatless Wellington was a great version of the English beef version - a crisp phyllo pastry stuffed with cottage cheese and grilled veggies, heavy but totally worth every bite. Even the Pumpkin Risotto which followed was a very pleasant veggie option, not over-cheesed and creamed but rather with the sweetness of the pumpkin adding a delicately warm flavor to the risotto.
For the carnivores there were some obvious choices. The Seafood Provincial was a delightful mix of crab, clams, squid, prawns and fish in a delightful broth flavoured with garlic and herbs. Dip in some crusty bread and you’re good to go. However our other favourite – the steak – didn’t fare quite so favourably. Despite ordering a medium rare version Mariam got an ice-cold well-done version and even when they replaced it, the second version lacked the juicy yet cooked texture that comes from a good piece of meat done on a good grill.
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| Grilled Steak Photo- Mariam Mamaji |
Dessert saved the day somewhat since our favourite Crème Brulee was done perfectly, smooth and rich but without the eggy aftertaste and a perfect crisp layer of caramel to top it off. Mariam’s other bête noire is the perfect cup of Espresso which Bombay restaurants often fail to live up to (too cold, too weak, too blah) but Zoe hit bullseye with their Double Espresso matching the right temperature with the right amount of coffee to create the perfect digestif.
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| Creme Brulee Photo- Mariam Mamaji |
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| Double Espresso Photo- Mariam Mamaji |
Crowd v/s Company
The unassuming entrance ensconced inside Todi Mills (home to Blue Frog and Busaba) opens into a huge loft-like space with high industrial ceilings, exposed bricks and pipes, blackened metal trimmings and in the midst of it raised couch seating in pleasant pastels. The atmosphere is buzzing yet relaxed with the usual mix of post-work folks unwinding over a drink and bite. Though the ambience does lend itself to tentative first dates and old friend reunions too with it’s seating which is spaced out without being intimidating.
Comeback Quotient
Zoe joins the league of (extra)ordinary restaurants in the vicinity viz. Indigo Deli and Smokehouse Deli and gets promptly added to our list of rendezvous joints, especially a pre-dinner before a good Blue Frog gig!