Quantcast

Chello Kebabs at Picaddilly Restaurant

GPS: Donald House, Colaba Causeway, opp. Electric House, Mumbai – 400039
Tring Tring: +91-22-22823217
Damages: Rs.150/- per portion
Some things are as plain as the nose on your face and yet it’s so easy to miss them. That’s a bit how it is with Picadilly. Though its located bang in the centre of Colaba Causeway, its edged out of the talking point space by the Woodside Inns, Leopold’s and Mondegars (partly due to the fact that they don’t serve alcohol and what is Colaba without an intoxicated lens to experience it through?)And yet Picadilly serves some of the best budget Lebanese food in town alongwith a full-fledged Iranian food menu. And top amongst its authentic offerings is one of our favourite dishes Chello Kebabs. Succulent sheikh kebabs lend their smoky flavor the buttery rice they are ensconced in; all we need to do is mash the accompanying grilled tomatoes and squelch the juice onto a morsel of rice and meat and pop into our mouth for instant bliss. Unlike most city versions of chello kebabs doused in cream or coconut milk the Picaddilly version is thankfully dry and much lighter with just the juices of the meat and the tomatoes to accompany the rice. For Indians used to gravies over their rice this might be a departure from convention, but when we’re exhausted from an afternoon of street shopping and hardball bargaining on Causeway this is what we crave to put the gleam back in our eyes and the energy back in our persuasions!


Sushi And More (Japanese Takeaway)

GPS: 2/A, Meherabad Building, near Tata Gardens, opp. Muchhad Paanwala, Warden Road, Mumbai – 4000356
Tring Tring: +91-22-66157285/86
In & Out: 11am – 8:45pm daily (last order)
Damages: Rs.1000/- for a meal for two
Must-Order: Shitake Mushroom Tartar Sushi
Umami Quotient:  Salty


The surest indicator of the gastronomic evolution of any city is the easy availability of affordable quality sushi. In that respect Mumbai has been nearly prehistoric. For save  Wasabi and San Qi which are über fine dining and the midlevel places like Joss (good), Asia 7 (terrible) and Japengo (RIP) there is absolutely  no go-go sushi to be had at beck and call unlike, say the ubiquitous Chinese takeaway. However SAM takes baby steps towards remedying this terrible lacuna with their new takeaway service at Napean Sea Road.
Palate
The menu is simple, short and fuss-free so all the indecisive people and Japanese cuisine virgins should have a field day navigating this 23-item menu divided into neat categories that span basic Japanese cuisine viz. sushi, soups n’ salads, gyoza (Japanese dumplings), tempura, teriyaki skewers, curries and the bento boxes (meal-for-ones) with vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. However SAM sticks to safe fishes like prawn, salmon and tuna, the ever-popular chicken and generous vegetarian options given their location in the Napean Sea Road/Warden Road which has a majority vegetarian population.


The Shitake Mushroom Tartar Roll among the vegetarian sushis was a pleasant eye-opener given we’re hardcore pescetarians who don’t even consider veg sushi an option! The texture of the shitake blends well with the tartar sauce, it’s not too cloying or creamy and the rice and nori are surprisingly fresh. Furthermore the sushi comes in a neat box with garo (pickled ginger), a blob of wasabi, sachets of soya sauce and a pair of chopsticks.


The salmon, cheese and scallion roll was delish as well with fresh fish, a hint of scallions and just the right dollop of cheese that prevents the sushi from getting gujju-fied! The chicken bento box is a bit humdrum though. There are 4 pieces of sushi with no discernible filling other than a large chunk of cucumber, some generic chicken stir fried in a soya/oyster sauce with bell peppers and some version of fried rice which wasn’t sticky enough to be quite Japanese or separated and fluffy enough to be Chinese. As Mariam concluded, it must’ve been local kollam rice at best.

Crowd V/s Company
The beauty of Bombay is that there is always an interesting conversation around the corner even if one is jostling cheek to jowl in a tiny takeaway hole in Napean Sea Road. In our case it was proprietor Harry Cheng (“Harry as in Harry Potter”) who shuttles between Tokyo, Singapore and Mumbai and has landed in the warmth and beat of Mumbai via jobs at Branson’s Virgin, weekly fish shopping in Tokyo’s legendary Tsukiji market with its 4000 stalls and daily USD 2 million turnover, and an undergrad course in Psychology from London School of Economics (“Me too” I pipe in and there is instant bonding since the Japanese origins of umami have already set the stage of comfortable bonhomie).


Alongwith takeaway, SAM sells a respectable collection of Japanese culinary aids viz. shitake mushrooms, miso soup sachets, tatami table mats and the vintage Kikkoman soya sauce dispenser bottle that we’ve been seeing on tables at Chinese restaurants in Bombay ad nauseam. A cheery orange and white interior with an L-shaped counter, 3 barstools to wait out the preparation of your order and some Japan maps and guide books to browse through complete this efficient sushi outing.

Boo Hoo
We weren’t kidding about SAM’s baby steps in the food business. They took 4 years to launch this outlet and even now don’t offer delivery beyond the pin code aka Breach Candy, Altamount Road and Nepean Sea Road. We envision this being a hurdle in their growth and popularity especially they have launched in a season where people are hindered by rains and wont to sit at home rather than brave the weather for a takeaway when there are many other options that have no problem bringing it to their doorstep.

Comeback Quotient
It’s a great idea for game nights with friends over when people are fed up of the usual kebab/biryani/Chinese options, and some sushi and gyoza can really make a pleasantly big difference. However a chauffeured car is intrinsic to sustained loyalty!

Cake In A Jar at Country of Origin

GPS:Maneesha, 69/A, next to Tahaa Spa, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill, Mumbai - 400006
Tring Tring: +91-22-2368 3261
Click:www.who? 
Damages: Approx Rs.600/-

It’s true; how we eat has a subtle impact on the entire gastronomic experience. And something as innocuous as putting a cake in a jar brings back all sorts of cozy memories of childhood, youth, romance and family. Whether its kids digging their spoons in and creating a messy map around their mouths, or teens indulging in boy-talks and latenight DVDs, or a couple sharing cake bites and kisses on a rainy evening, Cake in a Jar offers many opportunities to savour more than just a cake. It does help though that the cake itself is like sinking into a dream. We tried The Cookies & Cream combo with soft layers of toffee laid over cookie crumbles and impossibly fresh cream which was in equal parts a guilty pleasure and an elegant dessert. It refrains from getting too creamy which is a usual problem with this dessert and retains the crunch of the cookies as well as the fragrant aftertaste of the gloopy toffee. Whether you’re serving it at home for a dinner party, or just want a midweek treat we can’t think of a better or more original indulgence. 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Beer Belly

We warned you; we LOVE our beer! Given Mumbai weather (hot and humid), excise hikes on liquor prices (steep, steep, steep!) and our need for a gentle swaying high (ever so often!) we can think of no better topic to kick off our Relative Values section where we pick a generic food or drink and compare it across variants available in the city to see how it measures on the palate and pocket. And since Woodside Inn’s  beer n' burger fest kickstarts now (more on that further down)  there can be no better time to decode the beer language so that people can tank up and heighten their beer palates.
The two main types of beer are lager and ale. While in lager the yeast ferments at moderate to cool temperatures in ales it ferments at much higher temperatures giving both distinctly different tastes.



Lagers are the most popular in India also because their ready availability. Top domestic and international brands are mostly of the pilsner or light lager type and include (note all prices are retail approximations):



1.      Kingfisher Regular: Maybe its familiarity, cost or the high glycerin quotient, but no beer is quite as pleasing to the Indian palate as this green pint bottle which scores high on crispness, just the right kick and longevity. Damages: Rs. 60 approx

2.      Kingfisher Ultra: The lighter cousin of the classic, made from imported ingredients is the newest label to hit the market. It is most preferred for easy drinking though loyalists find it a tad less crisp.  Damages: Rs. 68

3.      London Pilsner: The term Pilsner comes from a beer-making technique which originated in Czech town Plzen and describes a light lager high in forced carbonation with 3-6% alcohol content. LP is a pleasing and smooth variant very similar to Ultra and now available in a spiffy redesigned can. Rs. 60 approx

4.      Budweiser/Tuborg/Carlsberg: Slightly flaccid and with a  soapy aftertaste these beers don’t have much going for them palate-wise once you overlook their venerable brand names and Tuborg’s peel-away top. It’s crucial to remember that Budweiser in India tastes nothing like its original American counterpart much like Coca Cola. Wonder why? Damages: Rs.65-75 approx

5.      Strong Beers: Given Indian proclivity for a quick and heavy high these beers do well among certain drinkers especially since all brands now have a ‘strong’ spinoff viz. Kingfisher Blue, Carlsberg Elephant, Tuborg Strong etc. Kingfisher blue is robust and masculine and even Elephant delivers a better punch and crispness with Elephant. Rs. 60 each


Top international picks include:
1.      Asahi: There is simply no match for this Japanese gem’s sharp crispness. Its light colour shouldn’t fool drinkers into thinking its light because it packs in a decent punch and has a nice bitter finish on the palate perhaps due to the rice that goes into brewing it. Rs. 132
2.      Stella Artois – A pale Belgian beer manufactured in UK, it fares well on the crisp-o-meter and the malted barley adds a fragrant touch to the sharp aftertaste. It's elegant easy drinking. Damages. Rs. 220
3.    Hoegaarden  : A pale cloudy Belgian wheat beer with sediments, the ‘Ho’ is light with a distinct orangey aftertaste which makes it ideal to drink it with a wedge of tangerine. This is also Mariam’s personal favourite and a great way to break the ice with her! Damages: Rs.220




4.      London Pride: One of the premium brown ales in the business, it was adjudged supreme champion at the 2000 international beer and cider competition. It's reminiscent of Guinness with a sweet beginning, a hint of honey and a crisp bitter ending (like many of our romances!). Be warned though that ales are acquired taste so progress onto them only after conquering the lagers!. Damages: Rs.350 approx
5.      Schneider Weisse: Again a full-bodied German wheat-based ale and the only one fermented in the bottle as opposed to barrels, it has a rich aromatic taste and a unique nutty finish. Despite being a heavy beer it’s not flaccid and packs in a punch in its own unique way. Deblina can be made to sign away her meagre fortunes over a couple of Schneiders so you can try your luck if you spot her at Woodside in the coming fortnight! Damages: Rs.300 approx




To sample all the above alongwith Heineken, Erdinger, Leffe, Corona, Birra Moretti, Brooklyn Lager and Murphy's Stout served with a smorgasbord of matching burgers, head to Woodside Inn  for their 4th Annual Beer ' Burger Festival on from 15th to 31st July 2011.

Cheers n’ burps!

Food For Thought

GPS: Kitab Khana, Somaiya Bhavan, 45/47, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Flora Fountain, Fort, Mumbai
Tring Tring:+91-22-22844242
In & Out: 10:00 am – 7:30pm daily
Damages: Rs.500/- for a meal for two
Must-Order: Hot Buttered Apple Tea
Umami Quotient:  Salty

Fort’s newly opened bookstore is everything a bookstore should be. It has calm stacks of books ranging from literary fiction to regional language bestsellers, is conspicuously free of DVDs, games, soft toys and other such indignities now stocked de rigueur in other city bookstores, and has the most charming café Food For Thought run by Kapil Sharma and his chef wife (if I am not mistaken her name is Kapila; and no I am not joking!). 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo- Mariam Mamaji
Bar-O-Meter
Since there is no alcohol on offer (we don’t want wannabe drunken poets after all, only sober connoisseurs!) we make do with the virgin beverages. The Hot Buttered Apple Tea is an absolute delight especially for squelchy rainy days like these ones. The cheery fragrance of apples meshes with the hint of butter that makes the tea a cloudy comforting delight. For all those with memories of sipping po cha (Tibetan buttered tea) in the mountainous terrains of Ladakh this comes a decent second. For scorching summer days our alternate pick is the perfectly tangy and cool Aam Panna, reminiscent of carefree childhood summers before colas and booze took over our thirst quotient.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo- Mariam Mamaji


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo- Mariam Mamaji
Palate
FFT is a snacky stopover rather than a full-fledged meal destination and ideal for nibbling over a lazy read so we usually go with the lighter snacks as opposed to the pasta offerings. The unlikely sounding Bhel Sandwich is actually delish with bhel daubed in the perfect green chutney stuffed between bread slices and a comforting taste of Bombay with every bite. The perfectly done golden fries on the side don’t hurt either! For sweet endings we eschewed the violent pink and vitriolic green cupcakes and decide to opt for our weak spot Carrot Cake instead. It turns out we had made the right decision because the FFT version is dense, dark and homey, generously sprinkled with walnut bits and rich n’ comfy with a cuppa coffee. 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo- Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo- Mariam Mamaji
Crowd V/s Company
It turns out that the Kitab Khana and FFT GPS used to house an LIC office which explains the high wood-beamed ceilings and the artfully located winding wrought iron staircase inside FFT painted  bright pink. Movie posters and memorable quotes on FFT walls complete the unpretentious artsy décor and the ambience is perfect for a lazy read avec some snacks even if one isn’t particularly famished. Host Kapil’s bright pink tee, silver ponytail and wide smile also adds to making the atmosphere cozy and personal, like a spiffier version of Samovar (minus the unwashed jholas!)

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo- Mariam Mamaji
Comeback Quotient
This is the perfect place for a teatime stopover and gupshup with friends working in the neighboring lawyer/trading district if one is in the Fort area and abhors coffee shop chains as much as we do. Warning: booklovers might never want to leave!

Grilled Salmon at Pali Village Cafe

GPS: Ambedkar Road, next to Janata Beer Bar, Pali Naka, Bandra (W)
Tring Tring: +91-22-26050401
Click: www.who?
Damages: Approx Rs.550/-

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo-: Mariam Mamaji.                                                                                               Grilled Salmon At Palli Village Cafe.   


To be exceptional at a classic dish is no mean feat and though grilled salmon is a staple in most Mediterranean restaurant menus, most offerings range from dry to ho-hum. Not the PVC version which is moist, juicy and perfectly grilled with a slight char accompanied by a delish saffron risotto and asparagus spears. There is a hint of lime, butter and parsley and they combine with the umami of the risotto to create a taste explosion in the mouth. This one has been our choice of main course 8 out 10 times we dine there.

Khichda by Sakina Mamaji

Charity begins at home.
So does gluttony we believe, ergo our newest section Home Truths!
And we have devoted it to foods and love. The foods we love, the people who lovingly create gastronomic magic, and the warmth and friendship that we share each time we break bread together. Every bite is a new memory and with Home Truths we do our bit to spread the love to your tabletops!
If there ever was a definitive soul food it would have to be Khichda. It’s usually best when shared with a group of happy diners – as has been the case over the years and countless dinners at Mariam’s whether it was with her folks, visiting family, friends or most recently my fiancé. It’s also been Mariam’s mother Sakina’s cure-all when we’re going through a low phase, haven’t met up for a while or she just generally concerned. “I’m making khichda, just come over” has been the best remedy to most life situations. Thus we could find no better item to kickstart our Home Truths.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Khichda                                                                                                                                               Photo-: Mariam Mamaji

Ingredients (Serves 6)
500gm pounded wheat/khandela gheun available only in grocery stores in Bohri Mohalla (click for map)
50gms mixed lentils (moong, masoor chana, urad.


10gms rice.


10gms oats.
1kg mutton (2:1 ratio with wheat)
8- 10 green chillies
10-12 pods of garlic peeled and chopped
2 big onions sliced/chunks
2-inch piece of ginger crushed
1 tablespoon oil
For Garnish:
15-20 pods of garlic peeled and chopped
4 tablespoons of ghee (clarified butter)
Coriander sprigs
Homemade garam masala powder (cloves, cardamom, cinnamon powdered at home)
Fried onions (locally called birista)
Mint leaves (pudina)
Lemon slices



The Grind
1.       Soak the wheat, lentils, rice and oats overnight in hot water
2.       Next morning boil wheat, mutton, ginger, garlic ,chillies and oil in 3 litres of water in a thick bottomed pan and add salt as per taste.
3.       Cover the pot and cook stirring occasionally on a low flame till most of the water has evaporated and the wheat and mutton are tender. It should take approx 3 hours. The consistency should be thick like porridge. If water evaporates before meat/wheat is cooked add more as required.
4.       Once cooked, remove all mutton pieces from the pot and pound the wheat mixture with a wooden churner (used for daals and pav bhajis). Alternately you can also give it one spin in the food processor
5.       Replace the meat in this pounded mixture
6.       Fry the garlic meant for garnish in ghee till its golden brown
7.       Add the fried garlic to the pot and stir thoroughly
8.       Garnish with coriander and garam masala powder and serve on the table
9.       Let diners garnish their serving with fried onions, lemon juice and mint leaves according to taste
10.   UMAMI!

Amadeus

GPS: National Centre for the Performing Arts, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 400001
Tring Tring:+91-22-22821212/4242
Click:  www.amadeusrestaurant.in  (site under construction)
In & Out: 12:30 am – 3:30pm (lunch) & 7:30 pm – 11:30 pm (dinner)
Damages: Rs.6000/- for a meal for two with alcohol
Must-Order: Albondigas of Lamb Tapas
Umami Quotient:  Salty

The rain in Spain might stays mainly on the plain but a trip to Spain in the rains can mainly be a pain! And we’ve taken not one but two of them in a span of 3 days through moving pictures and then our palate. First there was half-Parsi, half-cracked and fully hot Farhan Akhtar’s picturesque Spanish road trip in Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara on Sunday. And then last night was part deux with our half-Parsi, half – hilarious and full restaurateur friend Riyaaz at town’s newest half-Parsi (by clientele), half-Spanish (by cuisine) restaurant Amadeus! Since Riyaaz is a complete Espanophile with great passion and knowledge of different regional cuisines ranging from Andalusian to Catalonian to Basque we knew we were in good company.
Bar-O-Meter
The unbelievably affordably prices of wine by the bottle needs premier mention because to our knowledge there is no other fine dining restaurant which sells Indian wines starting from Rs. 1100/- and imported wines from Rs. 2000/- a pop. The selection is fairly exhaustive (and exhausting!) and upon the maitre d’s enthusiastic suggestion we settled for a bottle of the Italian Barbera d’Asti. The wine initially resembled an investment banker - all uptight with an elegant smoky edge - but through the course of the evening it unfurled into a drink resembling us aka floral, fruity, expansive and cheery!
Palate
We’ve been fans of proprietor Farrokh Khambatta’s pan-Asian restaurant Joss for a gazillion years now so we’re not surprised by the expansive menu running into 4-5 pages and quickly decide that we’re going to skip the vegetarian hot tapas and the soups and pick our way through the omnivorous hot n’ cold tapas, the cocas (Spanish pizza?). mains, paellas (mais oui!) and desserts. The Albondigas of Lamb tapas with sherry foie gras cream, black truffle scent and alfalfa sprouts is a promising opening to a new cuisine. The meat is finely ground and explosively fresh and perfectly seasoned with mint n’ pepper. The sherry infused foie gras broth is an interesting dip though we couldn’t find the black truffle in any of the flavours.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
The Albondigas of Lamb tapas                                                                                                  Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Amongst the pinchos (grilled skewers) we opted for the Puerto Rican styled beef skewers with caramelized shallots which were tangy, spicy and fun. I thought the beef could’ve been a tad more tender but Riyaaz explained that grilling tends to dry the moisture of meat so this was optimum. We then got waylaid by beefy matters and the revelation of the evening was the buffalo is the leanest of all red meats (we had no idea!) and thus by default (thanks to anti- cow slaughter laws) Bombayites have been having very healthy beef for all these years!
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
 Puerto Rican styled beef skewers                                                                                            Photo - Mariam Mamaji

The Warm Goat Cheese with mojo verde, apples walnut oil and baby lettuce was a complete letdown since the cheese came ice cold and resembled any other generic cheese n’ lettuce humdrum. The Twice Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna with Mandarin orange ceviche foam scored high on freshness since there was a hint of mint as well though for a raw dish the fish could’ve been fresher and we were puzzled as the why the dish came in a stemless martini glass dunked in room temperature water – shouldnt it have been crushed ice instead? We had great expectations from the Serrano Ham and rocket lettuce coca since Riyaaz claimed that this is pretty much the best ham in the world. However the minute we saw the tomato-smeared slices we had a bad feeling. As expected the flavor of the ham had been overpowered by the grilling and the tomato overlay and it ended up being just another soggy thin crust pizza slice.
The main course was salvaged by the Caipirinha-style Large Prawns flamed with caçhaca and burnt lemon yam tamales. The yam was ground to a paste and married off to coconut milk and kaafir limes and paired perfectly with the juicy prawns though we had a sneaky feeling this is more Asian than Spanish  - which is Farrokh’s area of expertise anyway. Mediterasian cuisine anyone??
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
 Caipirinha-style Large Prawns                                                                                       Photo - Mariam Mamaji

We knew the paella would be the make-or-breaker and we prayed hard for Amadeus’ sake. However not only did they mix up our order and get us the Valenciana with chorizo, chicken and prawns when we had ordered the full seafood one viz. Marisco de Rosa the mistake wasn’t even a  pleasant one. The rice was sticky and soggy, a cross between porridge and risotto. While the sprinkling of meat and fishes were large and generous nothing could make up for the strict lack of any flavor. However, when Mariam returned a fortnight later to can the pictures she was in for a pleasant surprise. The paella was delish and exactly what it should be. The staff confessed that they had been getting the wrong variant of rice imported which they had since rectified and what Mariam shot was smoky, separated and altogether completely redeeming.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
 Valenciana Paella                                                                                                               Photo - Mariam Mamaji

For dessert the maître d’ fulsomely recommended the Hot Chocolate & Grand Marnier soufflé with an espresso pour which has a 30 minute prep time. We of course enthusiastically ordered it with our food itself except that 1.5 hours into our dining even after we had finished dinner there was no sign of the soufflé. Only after we had expressly canceled it did they apologise, send us compensatory tart tatines (too jammy) and the soufflé. However barring the delay the soufflé was absolutely delish with warm dark chocolate oozing out of the cushiony caketop heavily infused with Grand Marnier. It was every bit the heady ending we needed to the tepid meal.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
 Hot Chocolate & Grand Marnier soufflé                                                                        Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Crowd v/s Company
The crowd is classically south Bombay/Joss/NCPA aka Parsi & Bohri nonagenarians, straitjacketed bankers/lawyers/entrepreneurs and blingy couples with diamonds and Diane von Furstenbergs in full display. The space is vast and broken into several areas including a private dining area, booths and straight up tables. An antique chandelier and a Zubin Mehta portrait completes the Parsi tribute. Perhaps because of the vastness, coziness is in short supply and one always feels somewhat awkwardly suspended in no-man’s land sitting on those straight-backed chairs in full view of all other diners and vice versa. We can easily foresee this being a great option for family and corporate dinners but perhaps not an ideal date venue.

Comeback Quotient
When we want fine dining with an Indian twist you might spot us here again!













Panacotta at Pali Village Cafe

GPS: Ambedkar Road, next to Janata Beer Bar, Pali Naka, Bandra (W)
Tring Tring: +91-22-26050401
Click: www.who?
Damages: Approx Rs.350/-

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Panacotta                                                                                                                                          Photo- Mariam Mamaji

I discovered this dessert fairly late in life in Goa at J&A’s Little Italy two-and-a-half years ago. And to their credit they do such a pitch-perfect job that they made me a panacotta lover for life! But in this city which has since then been hesitantly experimenting with this Italian dessert which literally means ‘cooked cream’ the results range from divine to disastrous. The PVC version is the former, with a perfect creamy consistency that’s not too dense or gloopy and with a hint of vanilla complimented by a perfect passion fruit coulis. Some people may like their panacotta with a chocolate, almond or sweet accompaniment but I am staunch supporter of a tangy fruit reduction to set off the smooth and delicately sweet texture of this dessert. Another great panacotta deserving mention is the one at Smokehouse Grill in Delhi which comes with a very innovative green peppercorn reduction.

Bijoli Grill

There are times when we’re all kitted out for a dining experience, ready with our pens, lens and palates to sample the best and worst in new and old joints across the city and serve you our verdict piping hot. And then there are times when we’re blindsided by a great meal when we least expect it. Maybe it’s a working lunch, a travelling bite, a shopping stopover whatever. The pen and lens might be AWOL but the palate is perma present so we owe it to you to relate our experiences, even sans the lipstick and hairspray. You could call it a Quickie of sorts! So here it is; the first of our occasional mini revues when we chance upon a gastronomic delight out of the blue. Pardon the less-than-professional picture quality and we still promise you a bull’s-eye lowdown!

GPS: Hakone Childrens Park, Hiranandani, Powai, Mumbai - 400076
Tring Tring:+91-22-65286604/65286605, +91-9321408265,/9768628258
In & Out: 12:00 am – 3:30pm (lunch) & 7:30 pm – 11:30 pm (dinner)
Damages: Rs.1000/- for a meal for two without alcohol
Must-Order: Chital Maacher Muitha
Umami Quotient:  Sweet
It was supposed be a quick lunch with colleagues tired of the office caterer’s assembly line curries. Considering Powai is home to generic restaurant chains (Mainland China, Aroma, Chilis, Café Mangi etc etc) we had slim pickings. On a lark we decided to try out fresh Calcutta export Bijoli Grill. The thing about Bengali food is that it’s still sort of exotic for non-Bengalis (yes that’s a legit term that Bongs use for anyone not ‘one of us’!) and since 2 of the 4 of us weren’t ‘us’ they were happily ready for the variety. The 2 Bengalis of course didn’t need to be asked twice!

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Ilish Begun Jhal Posto


I must confess I haven’t tried BG in Calcutta despite it being a ubiquitous presence there (I much prefer the home-run Kewpies instead). So in a sense it was a virgin outing for all of us. The neat (if tiny) interiors were reassuring with slatted dark wood tables, screens and bright green crockery (albeit melamine!). The extensive menu comprised a host of Bengali starters (all deep fried!) which we avoided and dived straight into the main course. Since they had a hilsa festival on, we had to order one specialty which we did – the Ilish Begun Jhaal Posto (hilsa cooked with aubergines and poppy seeds in spicy gravy). For the uninitiated hilsa is the emperor of all Bengali fishes, a saltwater fish that comes inland to the estuaries to breed during monsoons making it a river and a sea fish. And its roe is easily better than the best caviar (or so say the Bengalis as they pop lightly fried roe balls into their mouth alongwith the afternoon drink!). The fish was superbly fresh and tender, flaking at touch and not overpowered by the rich gravy.


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Kankrar Jhal

For our vegetarian colleague there was Chholar Dal (Bengal gram dal with coconut slivers) and Aloo Posto (stir fried potatoes with poppy seeds). As you may have guessed poppy seeds - much to the surprise of most other Indians who consider it raw material for illegal drugs, (which it is!) – is a  Bengali favourite with no food value (but plenty of drowsy value!). We quickly proceeded to other pescetarian passions with the Kankrar Jhaal (crabs in spicy curry) with juicy morsels dunked in a rich tomato onion base and finally Chital Maachher Muitha. Chital is a typically Bengali river water fish usually steamed, deboned, drained and rolled into balls with boiled potato and simmered in rich onion gravy. It’s not everyday Bengali home cooking and usually reserved for weddings and feasts instead. Since this is a fish not available in Bombay we were impressed at the freshness of the fish which elevated the preparation from a generic curry to a delicacy. The meal was rounded off by another Bengali staple, the sweet n’ sour raw mango chutney which balanced out the savoury gravies to the hilt. Though desserts had decent offerings of malpua, pithe (coconut pancakes) and mishti doi (sweet curd) we were too overloaded to even contemplate greed.


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Chital Maachher Muitha

The nominal bill just confirmed our second visit. Now, to just manage a half-day post lunch next time round; after meals like this, work is a laughable impossibility!

Neel

GPS: Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Opposite Gate No. 5 & 6, Keshavrao Khadye Marg, Mumbai
Tring Tring: +91-22- 61577777/ 23066262/ 23066161
Click:  www.who?  (website under construction)
In & Out: 12 noon- 3pm (lunch) 7:30 pm – 12 midnight (dinner)
Damages: Rs.5000/- for a meal for two with alcohol
Must-Order: Gosht Ki Dum Biryani (had at another occasion)
Umami Quotient:  Sweet
I love inside jokes. Even when they do a peek-a-boo with the outsiders occasionally. So I love the literal translation of Indigo to Neel for Rahul Akerkar’s maiden Indian odyssey TRFKAT (The Restaurant Formerly Known As Tote!!). Mariam decided to give Neel a dekko on the fly giving in to impromptu plans for an Indian dinner. Given ‘em damn calories we really avoid sumptuous Indian fare before bedtime but anyone related to Indigo deserves an unabashed embrace!
Palate
Given its last incarnation as Tote the bar pleasures remain largely unchanged with great wines, single malts, mean martinis and signature cocktails. And since Indian food is heavy anyway we prefer to skip tipply pleasures when indulging in a full-blown desi extravaganza. Given the number of vegetarians at the table we ordered and sampled a lot more vegetarian dishes than we’d ever consider on our own -  and in hindsight maybe that’s a good thing for reviews if not personal taste! However the vegetarian items not only passed muster but even held their own in a cuisine (traditional Muslim, Kashmiri and Awadhi) that has many more stellar offerings in their carnivorous variety. Since we’re still unused to soups in Indian meals we left the Nalli Ka Awadhi Shorba and Chilgoza (pine nut) Shorba and capitulated to the Sofiyani Paner Tikka and the Lucknow Seekh Kebab. Both the paneer and the lamb competed in the soft-as-a-feather-pillow category and took home joint honours. Both had been marinated to perfection without being doused in spices and were a great way to kick off the meal.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Lucknow Seekh Kebab

 For the main course the vegetarians settled for Khade Masaley ka Paneer and Kabul ki Dal. While the former was once again delish thanks to the super-soft texture and simplicity of the whole spice gravy the dal was a bit of the letdown given its exotic name. I guess the black dal is such a eulogized item on any Indian menu that expectations from it are higher than an Aamir Khan film!
The carnivores settled for Rajasthani Laal Maas which is rarely found even in restaurant in Rajasthan, let alone Bombay given its rarefied royal origins in the largely vegetarian state. The boneless mutton was tender to the point of being flaky but the gravy was a tad too intensely spiced for our palates.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Laal Maas

While we usually look down upon chicken as a legitimate carnivorous option we couldn’t pass up most of the delish sounding options on the menu. Making a mental note to try the Kashmiri Waza Kukkadu (I am guessing a traditional wazwan recipe spin?) we settled for the Murgh Baradari Korma. It was one of those few instances where despite being notably heavy given the almonds/cream combination, the flavours exploded in our palates in orchestrated unison and got a robust thumbs-up from all diners.



Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Murgh Baradari Korma
Unlike most restaurants where rotis get supporting roles, in Neel they occupy a central place of creativity and have curiosity-inducin variants made with melon seeds (Awadhi Magaz Naan), poppy seeds (Bakhumaas), saffron (Shirmal) or sourdough (Khamiri Roti). We settled for the Malai Parathas which reeked of the goodness of fresh cream and were a sinful delight for calorie atheists.
Since nawabi cuisine is incomplete without biryani and since Neel’s chef is Mukhtar Qureshi whose uncle legendary ITC chef created the modern ‘dum biryani’ as we know it now, our meal would be incomplete without some biryani, damn actual appetite! With great trepidation bordering on blasphemy we ordered the vegetarian Guchhi biryani made with morels and were stunned at the fleshy umami texture of the mushrooms and the preparation which almost made us feel like we were eating mutton! There wasn’t a glint of oil or spice, unlike most biryanis we have to put up with when eating out and the rice was the longest grains we have ever encountered; where does Neel source it’s Basmati from, we couldn’t help but wonder? But given the carnivores that we are we couldn’t resist a bite of the Real McCoy aka the Gosht Ki Dum Biryani which substituted the juicy morels for fresh tender baby goat but kept the sparse yet rich flavor of the dum cooking intact. If there is heaven on earth, it surely has to be in a morsel of perfect biryani we would have to conclude!
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Guchhi Biryani

Never mind that we were bursting at the seams, dessert had to be done justice to, and since the seasonal jalebis weren’t available that evening we settled for the second-best sin, the Parde Mein Khubani, an apricot halwa baked inside a flaky phyllo with the shortening of the crust mixing with the hot melting goodness of the halwa to d a proper tango on the palate (or should it be kathak given the cuisine?). All we needed now was some seriously good churan (Indian digestives!) to end the night without mishaps borne of gastronomic excesses!
Crowd V/S Company
While the menu and language has changed avatar completely, walking to Neel can give one a case of serious déjà vu because the décor is stuck in the Tote era. The same minimalist white décor and vast spaces by Serie Architects Chris Lee and Kapil Gupta that garnered instant eyeballs at Tote’s openings now shoulder the robustness of Neel’s menu a tad uncertainly we felt. Maybe the food warrants warmer cozier interiors with low seating? A touch of sufiyana and ghazal in lamplit shadows perhaps??
Comeback Quotient
Whenever we want a sublime Indian meal that stands heads and shoulder above the generic Khyber and Copper Chimneys, and overrated Peshawaris of the world we’re going to be stopping by at this Mecca of gastronomic delights less ordinary, diets be damned!

Malvani Kurli Masala by Roma Ashish Nagpal

When people say Indians have a crab mentality, they aren’t far from the truth. Mariam in particular has a tremendous crab mentality – she goes mental over crabs! So when her friend’s sister-in-law aka kitchen superstar Roma whips up her signature crabs Mariam makes sure she treks up to Juhu to pay homage. The mountain-high pile of legs and claws ensures that it’s a communal meal shared by a host of family and friends every time and though the chillies can tear up the eyes of a spice naïf, they are so packed with flavours which burst forth with every crack that the sniffs and copious gulps of water all well worth it. So for all those  looking for the perfect Sunday afternoon lunch idea to go with the beer, we couldn’t think of a better secret to let you in on! And the even better news is that on the days you're too tired or lazy to get down to the grind yourself Roma is happy to take orders to cook for you (prior notice required). You can contact her on +91-9833069302


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Malvani Crab Masala
Photo: Mariam Mamaji

Ingredients
5 / 6 medium crabs
3 tsp Malvani fish masala (available at local grocery stores)
1 cup grated coconut
1 cup dry grated coconut
1 cup finely chopped onion
9-10 garlic cloves ground to a paste
Red chili powder (according to taste)
8 -10 curry leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt to taste

The Grind
  1. Clean the crabs and separate the claws and the legs. (http://www.aayisrecipes.com/2006/06/04/how-to-clean-crabs/)
  2. Grind the small legs of all crabs to a paste and remove the juice from them.
  3. Sieve the   ground juice through a muslin cloth and keep aside. This juice is used to make the gravy.
  4. Dry roast both the types coconut till they become brown and grind it to a fine smooth paste.
  5. Fry the chopped onions till golden brown and grind to a fine paste.
  6. In a thick bottom cauldron/wok put a little oil and fry the garlic paste & curry leaves. Then add the onion and coconut pastes alongwith the malvani masala and the red chili powder and fry till the oil separates.
  7. Add the crab juice and lemon juice and let it boil. Then add all the crabs (but no additional water)
  8. Since crabs are naturally salty, add salt only after tasting and boil till crabs are fully cooked
  9. Serve with chapattis  or hot rice
  10. Enjoy the umami!  

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

When There Is A Lot At Steak!

It’s probably evident by now, Mariam and I love our steak! It tickles our umami, marinates our palates in succulent juices and is the just the right thing to do after a good beer or bottle of red wine (btw for Indian wine accompaniments we usually go with Grover’s La Reserva Cabernet Shiraz, it’s the best Indian red wine in the under Rs.800 bracket). Some of our finest steak memories include steak tartare which Mariam sampled for the first time in a local café during her first visit to Paris and tantalized me with for 2 years, till I reached Balthazar at NYC and had my own version of minced raw beef with raw eggs (yep!!) garnished with chopped onions, capers and Worcestershire sauce. And even if I suffer from Alzheimer’s in my old age is unlikely I will forget the taste of the unbelievably juicy and fatty ribeye steak I had in a nameless little local bar outside Yellowstone National Park in Montana, US during my crosscountry roadtrip last year.
In Bombay however, our steak safari has had mixed results. While we have been wowed on many occasions, there have been some serious bloopers. Mostly we attribute it to the cow slaughter ban which means what we get is buffalo meat in the name of tenderloin, sirloin, filet mignon, ribeye and whatehaveyou. The point is that these cuts remain demarcations in name only because buffalo is a significantly tougher meat impervious to quick searing methods used for rare and medium-rare preparations. However enterprising Mumbai restaurateurs are sidestepping this obstacle by somehow miraculously treating their domestic buffalo meat to masquerade as beef with increasing levels of success.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
US Steak Cuts

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
UK Beef Cuts


















Top mention must go to Rahul Akerkar’s establishment be it Indigo or Indigo Deli. While the dishes are presented differently in each restaurant (different cuts, different accompaniments) what’s consistent is the almost butter-soft texture of the meat, oozing juice and red wine drizzle, perfectly delicious even without the old Indian habit of a rich pouring sauce. Whether it’s anchovy-infused mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, a sprinkling of thyme or herbed veggies these are steaks par excellence. The waiters usually also understand instructions of ‘medium-rare aka pink-no-blood” which can be quite rare (pun unintended!) in Bombay! The prices usually range between Rs. 500-700/- between the three establishments. Umami Quotient: Umami!


Another restaurateur whose steaks do justice to the palate is Riyaz Amlaani with his offerings at Tasting Room (one of our favourite haunts!) and Saltwater Café. Though the one at Tasting Room can be a tad chewy on occasion its often accompanied by their trademark wasabi mash or broccoli and blackened mushrooms. The one at Saltwater Cafe however is a slice of heaven on a plate, tender inside, and pepper-crusted on the outside and distinctly flavourful, accompanied by a layer of emmenthal on top and roasted root veggies on the side. These steaks are surprisingly affordable for their quality at under Rs. 500/-.  Umami Quotient: Umami


Another impressive and relatively new entrant is Chez Vous at Churchgate, Bombay’s first standalone French restaurant in our lifetime (I am sure Vir Sanghvi can remember some from ye ol’ times!) which serves a mean chateaubriand which they claim is domestically reared organic cow. Puzzled questions around cow slaughter bans were met with a charming and slightly incomprehensible French accent so we dropped the topic, thanked our lucky stars and sank our knives into that mean hunk of flesh accompanied by a polenta cake and a mustardy aoli (though I could be mistaken since the beef was so tender I was considerably distracted!). Since they pride themselves on serving genuine domestic beef the price is slightly steep at Rs. 850/-. Umami Quotient: Sweet
For a reliable steak on regular weeknight dining options there is the evergreen Woodside Inn to turn to. As long as you vehemently specify “pink no blood” (don’t bother with the well-done, medium, rare terminology, it means completely different things in India!), the results are surprisingly tender accompanied by some no-nonsense rosemary mashed potatoes and grilled veggies. Ditto for the version at Pali Village Café. WI steaks are priced at approx Rs. 350/- while the PVC one is around Rs. 650/-.Umami Quotient: Salty

And as far as old-world continental options go, Mariam recently introduced me to a delightful well-kept secret in the heart of Churchgate called the Lido Room! Yes, it’s the restaurant at the Ritz Hotel with a distinctly clubby feel, all-French menu (even the language!), an el cheapo retro wood bar and a mean version of steak ambitiously called a chateaubriand (though the “pink no blood” instruction gets lost in translation en route the waiter to the kitchen!). But at less than Rs.400/- a pop accompanied by a rich black pepper n' mushroom sauce (served in one of those adorable retro gravy bowls!) and a delish butter spinach mash alongwith the potatoes and veggies, this is one soul meal. On an aside we also discovered that they serve liquor on all dry days! Woohoo! Guess where we’re headed when the next whathisname Jayanti rolls around!!!! Umami Quotient: Sour

That sums up our steakometer for now. Since restaurants are mushrooming in the city as we write we’re sure many will try their hand at a filet mignon, it’s suddenly become a chic regular on fine dining menus. But you will know from us who get it right and who serve molar nightmares!
PS: As you may have noticed, we generally exclude five-star options and/or imported beef from our considerations because at the price they cost, they better be good - no review should be required!

Freeman and Baker

GPS:Shop No.5, Sagarika CHS, opp. Palm Grove Hotel, Juhu-Tara Road, Juhu, Mumbai - 49
Tring Tring:+91-22-26131522
Click:  www.freemanandbaker.co.uk (site under construction)
In & Out: 11:00am – 11:00pm
Damages: Rs.600/- for a meal for two
Must-Order: Salami Milano sandwich in multigrain bread
Umami Quotient:  Sweet
Very rarely do we love a suburban restaurant enough that we wish it moved to town. But F&B deserves that honour. We went looking for a quick lunch and a hangover cure and what we found instead was a delightful little deli with a cheery space, great DIY sandwiches, a source of steak cuts for home grills (otherwise rare to find in Bombay) and a most affable owner Vishal Mehra. 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
             Photo - Mariam Mamaji
Palate
Beverages consist of non-alcoholic bottled goodies like Snapple and Lipton Iced Tea which we don’t much care for so we cut to the chase to the grub directly. Our friend’s glazed hangover got proprietor Vishal briskly sending across black coffee alongwith a plate of ham and delish goat cheeses slices to (gr)ease the pain while Mariam and I finalized our selections. Since there isn’t a kitchen as such at F&B hot food options are limited to pre-baked quiches and readymade sandwiches alongwith budget comfort food like chicken lollipops, cutlets and puffs to please the college-going crowd. Our attention is piqued by the DIY sandwiches where one can choose their bread, meat and cheese combinations and have a designer sandwich whipped up for you under five minutes. We finally selected the Chicken n Mushroom quiche which was the perfect size for a meal-for-one with a crumbly base full of the goodness of shortnening melting into hunks of chicken and fleshy mushrooms. It was herby and flaky and not maxed out on cheese unlike many other city options and just the perfect comfort food after hard night of partying. Ditto for the Salami Milano sandwich with Emmenthal slices in multigrain bread where the rich spiciness of the meat was offset by the Emmenthal’s more subdued supporting act resulting in a gorgeous duo of flavours on the palate. However the other sandwich of garlic salami with herbed Gouda cheese on whole-wheat bread was a bit of a taste collision as the meat’s flavours got hijacked by the dominatrix cheese. Note to self: garlic salami needs a delicate cheese to give it company, maybe the goat cheese? Desserts came in the form of two perfectly respectable brownies -  a gooey chocolate and a walnut version.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Chicken n Mushroom quiche                                                                                     Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Garlic salami sandwich with herbed Gouda                                                                          Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Salami Milano sandwich with Emmenthal                                                                Photo - Mariam Mamaji


While the cheese and cold cut selection is on par with Godrej Nature’s Basket (albeit with the sandwich-on-the-spot option as a classic deli should be) what really had us nodding in appreciation was the wide variety of fishes and meat available for cooking. Seafood included scallops, yellow fin tuna, grilled eel, soft-shell crab and Atlantic & black cod while the meat selection included baby-back ribs, lamb shanks, pork chops, tenderloin, rib-eye & T-bone steak cuts, raw foie gras, butterball turkey etc. they even had an interesting collection of mock-meats that any China visitor will be acquainted with; those mystery delicious morsels of soya that taste exactly like meat while being vegetarian! They have faux scallops, chicken nuggets, Beijing duck, and fragrant mutton among other varieties. While Indigo deli has sold some of this stuff around the year F&B certainly has more ready availability with a printed list and offers to home deliver on orders of Rs.1000 & above – very easily doable if say, cooking steaks for a dinner party at home.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Gooey chocolate and walnut                                                                                         Photo - Mariam Mamaji
Crowd V/s Company
Make no mistake; F&B is tiny! However they use their minimal space with intelligence, grace and lack of pretense. So there are no illusory mirrors or countertop dining, but what they do have is pop tablecloths in happy floral prints, French-inspired wooden chairs, wall shelves packed with sauces, noodles, snacks and a deli counter stuffed with fresh cheeses and meats. Our host Vishal Mehra is exactly what we always hope for, honest affable, decorous – but-not-obsequious and a genuine food lover (Vishal apparently chucked up a 22-year corporate career to bring us these delish fresh sandwiches, what a wise man!). He most accommodatingly laid out the hunks of cheese and meat on the tables for us to click away in peace as well. As we finish our lunch and get ready to leave we see myriad loyalists stroll in; some arty types borrowed from Prithvi and a gravity-defying afro that didn’t belong to Imaad Shah for starters! Apparently it’s a magnet for the nearby BBM students of neighboring colleges as well.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji
Comeback Quotient
Inveterate townies that we are we always shudder at paucity of credible choices for a quality fuss-free meal north of Bandra but F&B carries a familiar whiff of town, class, affordability and (at least as of now!) no wannabes. You bet we’ll be back!

Foodyssey: French Riviera en route London

You probably know by now how much we love our food. Thus it’s but natural that any travel should have gourmet escapades as a prominent centerpiece. My recent week-long trip to Cannes, Antibes and London was no different. There were some gorgeous meals, some experiments, some discoveries, some disappointments and a whole lot of umami adventures!
As soon as I had checked into my hotel at Cannes I decided that my first meal should pay homage to the location. Thus I sat in my crochet maxi dress (black naturally to go with French chic!) with Gucci shades perched on my nose, Kindle in hand and shopping bags on spare chair and proceeded to sip a glass of house red wine alongwith some steak tartare. It was a nameless café but I was confident that steak tartare was to France what the samosa is to India. Perhaps not. The stomach loosened considerably over the next few days and I swore to stick to Balthazar in the future especially since there is one opening in London, Covent Garden as we speak!
The next day Sunday was spent in Antibes which is thoroughly recommended for anyone breezing past the Riviera. After walking a good 3-4 hours through the city and its offerings we stopped for lunch at a local’s recommendation at La Forge. The 3-course at LF was perhaps my best French meal ever.
A dozen mussels served in an ingenious dish resembling an egg tray dipped in basil garlic aioli was a mouthful of heaven. My colleague’s vegetarian option of the goat’s cheese n’ honey drizzled toast was an absolute delight as well with the most sublimely smooth cheese ever.
For mains I had the beef tagliatelle which could have been a bit tenderer but the vegetarian pasta was delightfully fresh. The highlight of the meal however was the desserts and the wine. A Sancerre Blanc (white) is a must while travelling in France; it’s simply put the best white wine ever.
And what can I say about the desserts? The panacotta served in a champagne flute with fresh berry compote was a creamy dream while the intensely coffee’d tiramisu with the spongiest cake ever was music to the palate. The most amazing thing was that both desserts have a vanilla cream base and yet their textures were so subtly but definitely different!

However the highlight of the entire trip would have to be the pizza we had at Vesuvio on the Croisette in Cannes right next to the Martinez hotel. Vesuvio is probably the most popular restaurant on the Croisette, serving Italian cuisine instead of the usual French with boisterous waiters, a no-reservation policy and the best dark chocolate sorbet ever! We were in luck to find truffles in season and ordered the Al Tartuffe thin crust pizza with cream cheese, loads of fresh rocket and generous shavings of black truffle covering the pizza like a soft blanket. How the taste exploded in our mouths is almost impossible to describe. I’d say that truffles ARE umami! The sensation of umami exists to describe truffles which for a vegetarian item have the most sensuous and fleshly fragrance – almost sexual if I can say that without blasphemy! The best part of the meal was the complete lack of snobbery or overpricing involved, the dish was served without drama and a very generous quantity of truffles and priced exceedingly well at 30€ which was more than enough for two people to share. Frou-frou restaurant learn a thing or two I say!
By our last night in Cannes though I was all Frenched out and ready to give my tummy some R&R. And voila L’Evolier on the Croisette provided just that with a really interesting dish of organic quinoa mixed with seasonal greens served alongside smoked salmon n’ cream cheese on toast. The cold and fresh quinoa provided a perfectly light n’ healthy foil to the salmon and the meal provided some salve to a overworked tummy!
Then came London and bye-bye sunshine! The whiny cold crept up my legs and drove me into the warmth. Or should I say the overbooked noisy razzmatazz of Nobu at Berkeley Square which had Russian oligarchs and 6-feet blonde babezillas galore and Arabs at the next table who surreptitiously copped our order? However the actual dining experience was a total letdown compared other London Japanese haunts like Roka, Cocoon or even the Nobu’s older sister at the Metropole hotel. The sashimi passed muster but the Wagyu beef steak with truffle was a complete con-job with stringy beef which is no way shape or form resembled the fabled beer-massaged bovines and the only truffle we saw was the truffle oil drizzled over the steak slices. Completely not worth the label or the price. Venture to this hotspot only if you want to be seen or bask in the glow of oil money!
The next day was some respite as we headed for lunch to the Mews of Mayfair tucked into a small square off the main Mayfair road. The downstairs bar is plushly cozy with studded sofas and dark wood paneling while the dining room upstairs is a complete yin to the bar’s yang. Pale cream walls, curtainless windows adorned with Riedel decanters and iron filigree butterflies comprise the décor. The duck terrine entrée was superbly fresh and I suggest never having a terrine in London unless its gourmet; the pub variants are a tasteless pasty waste! For mains I got the black-faced lamb with spinach while my partner opted for a well-done steak with wild cep mushrooms. This is the first time I have had a well-done steak which retains its softness, moisture and juice; that alone earns my loyalty! My lamb was delish too though a tad heavy since it included a rack and a portion of liver. We washed down the meal with some lotus blossom tea served in the prettiest silver-painted china ever and then had the best part of the meal, a superlative crème brulee brimming with Madagascar vanilla beans and the perfect layer of crisp caramelized sugar. Blissville anyone?
As the trip came to an end so did my famed appetite and inclination for European haute cuisine. By dinnertime some Asian flavours were needed urgently and Banana Tree at Soho provided some indo-Chinese relief with a spicy Chicken n’ Prawn Pad Thai. Burp, sigh! I was ready to go home!

You can also check out this post on http://www.vogue.in/content/foodyssey-french-riviera-en-route-london-0 and share with friends and foodies to spread the love!

Going Places: 5 All Day

GPS:Apollo Hotel, Brightland Building, Landsown Road , Colaba, Mumbai - 5
Tring Tring:+91-22-65247070
Click:   http://www.5therestaurant.com/ (website of parent restaurant 5)
In & Out: 12:00 noon – 12:00 midnight
Damages: Rs.1500/- for a meal for two without alcohol
Must-Order: Kasundi Marinated Bekti with Lentil Cone Mash & Butter Melt
Umami Quotient:  Sweet
The last week of September saw a neat restaurant swap between Colaba and the Andheri. We sent over our favourite trusty Woodside Inn to quench their thirst for ‘coolth’ and they graciously reciprocated with a branch of Restaurant 5, renamed 5 All Day, a modern European restaurant which has been quietly delighting discerning diners for the past 3-4 years. Since Colaba has such few new restaurants we jumped at the bait, glad that the prime location behind Regal had bid adieu to the dodgy-looking nightspot Oba for an affordable dining option.
Bar-O-Meter
As befitting an all-day dining they have a respectable list of cocktails and wines and surprisingly good list of aperitifs which is rare in Bombay outside clubs and five-stars. Since we had gone for the wine-soaked pre-opening brunch we can vouch for the crisp n’ tangy cranberry champagne cocktails though the mojitos were too sugary for Mariam’s liking.
Palate
The list of starters is ambitious and impressive with a variety of interesting options like Pork Bratwurst & Kasundi Flavoured Scrambled Eggs. We scoured the list and opted for the Burger Platter with 3 mini burgers; the chicken burger was alright but the chorizo & ham variant was juicy and delish. The vegetarian corn one though was rather blah and hazy. Portion-wise it’s a perfect share between two people.

The Seafood Stew though was superlative, peppered with generous quantities of fresh fish bits, prawns, squid and scallops. The broth was infused with garlic, basil, lemongrass and Thai yellow paste and delicately fragrant and a delightful accompaniment to my friend Monali and my incessant gossip sessions!

I know chef cum manager Mrinmoy for a while now, from his last stint at Yellow Tree Café and I love his modern ways of introducing elements of Bengali cuisine to European fare. Though he had started the same at YTC, it’s come full bloom at 5AD. The Bengali staple Kasundi (a tangy mustard sauce that usually accompanies bitter gourd preparations) makes repeated appearances in different forms as does Calcutta’s favourite all-purpose fish bekti (much like rawas, firm-fleshed and sparsely boned). The Kasundi Marinated Bekti we had for the main course was superbly fresh with hints of the river sweetness still embedded in the flesh. The tang of the kasundi balanced the freshness out beautifully and I was pleasantly surprised to find another humble Bengali kitchen ingredient make a posh European debut, the bori (dried lentil cones used in different curries as an add-on).

We also had the Roast Leg of Lamb though we substituted the herb rice with grilled veggies. The lamb was a piece de resistance, beautifully tender, marinated to the bone in red wine and flaking at touch. It’s rare that we have a non-Indian mutton preparation that is packed with so much umami!

We were packed to the gills but dessert is a duty towards our palates we have to fulfil so we reached out for the Dark and White Chocolate Parfait and parfait it was! The dark chocolate was a rich mousse studded with maraschino cherries while the white came with a mascarpone mousse. The combination was intensely creamy and rich without being sickeningly oversweet and was more than enough for two people; definitely a dessert meant to be shared!

Crowd v/s Company
The unusual combination of pink n’ green walls with a mirror-mosaic ceiling spread over the bar makes for a curiously cool and clean ambience. The tables are few and spread apart, affording privacy to diners, most unusual of an all-day eatery. The location as we mentioned before is über-prime at the troika of Ling’s Pavilion, All Stir Fry, Indigo Deli, Table & Moshe not to mention the Taj Mahal. In such august company it’s a sin to go wrong but we have a feel 5AD wont! We predict many effortless catch-ups with friends, cozy dates, quick after-work meals and post-shopping coffees in the future!

Comeback Quotient
As long as they remain coolly uncluttered and unpretentiously affordable they can expect us back as lifers!

You can also catch our story on http://www.vogue.in/content/going-places-5-all-day and spread the love to friends and foodies!

There Is Something About Sweet Nothings! - Bombay's Top 10 Desserts


Call it a cultural coincidence, but desserts form a crucial part of our dining experience. As a Bohri Muslim Mariam’s grown up with traditional meals being kick-started with shirkhurma or sevai whereas as a Bengali all things roshogolla form my dining bible. Hence we take desserts very seriously. And believe it or not, in country where mooh meetha is such an integral experience, a good dessert is harder to find than one might think. But never fear when the umami girls are here to sort the chaff from the good stuff!
First off a few disclaimers. We’re heartily over cupcakes and macaroons! They are about as trendy/tiring as it-bags and done to death. Hence don’t be surprised if you don’t spot mentions of Tart, Butterfly or Le 15; we’re sure cupcake evangelists don’t need a recommendation to spin butter cream frosting fantasies, though Tart does do some excellent cakes on order especially the banana cream cheese version. We also avoid 5-star patisseries because über-superiority is a given when it’s a five-star especially to justify the whopping prices. Hence we leave out Leela’s Dolce despite its salted caramel cupcakes having some ardent followers as well as the newly opened chocolaterie/patisserie Debailleul which flash-freezes its desserts and flies them in from France; no rocket science in that is there? Very regretfully we exclude the in-house bakery at WIllingdon Club, Haji Ali as well despite its hearty cakes, jam sandwich biscuits and macaroon biscuits (those big knobby ones filled with coconut!) since its accessible only to members.
Phew now we can settle some sweet scores!
1.    Baked Molten Chocolate Cake at Moshes: It takes 20 minutes to make from time of ordering so it’s not for the undecided but its easily one of the best chocolate desserts in town; an all-time classic featuring a dark spongy layer of cake which gives way under the urging of our spoons to yield bubbling hot chocolate, dense, lightly sweet and very, very dark, just the way we like it. For the diet-conscious the flourless L’Orange with an intense hint of orange is a good runner-up as well. Price: Rs. 250 approx]

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Baked Molten Chocolate Cake                                                Photo - Mariam Mamaji

2.    Banana Flip Torte at 5 All Day– We chanced upon this by sheer luck while catching up with an old school friend and resident dessert fiend down from HK for a holiday. A thin layer of chocolate cookie crumble laid over with caramelised banana mash and a topping of mascarpone cream and apple slices exploded in our mouths in creamy fragrant sweetness. After banoffie this has got to be our favourite banana dessert ever! Price: Rs. 200/- approx
3.    Panancotta at Pali Village Cafe: One of our favourite desserts ever, we don’t take too kindly to chefs who botch this up, but PVC earns brownie points for life because they do a delightful version of this Italian favourite which we have earlier featured in our Love Bite section (our previous Love Bite link): Price: Rs. 350 approx

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Panancotta.                                                                             Photo - Mariam Mamaji

4.    Bread Pudding at Candies: If anything bought off the counter had to classify as homey comfort it would have to be this. Reminiscent of growing up years when mummy mashed stale bread with milk n’ dry fruits to create a surprise weekday treat, the Candies version retains the moist plumpness of the memories with just the right amount of sweetness peppered with plump raisins. It’s the perfect ending to a salad n’ sandwich lunch or an accompaniment to the evening cappuccino. When you need mummy’s soothing touch, this is the next best thing at hand! Price: Rs. 90 approx

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Bread Pudding                                                                           Photo - Mariam Mamaji

5.    Caramel Custard at Universal Café -  Universal Cafe at Ballard Estate is one of the last of the quintessential Irani cafes which define the Cosmopolitan soul of Mumbai serving hearty Irani teatime snacks and meals alongwith club-style continental dishes and the best ending to all those meals, their Caramel Custard. It always has the right balance of eggs and caramelised sugar, neither too sweet, nor too eggy. This one is Mariam's favourite  go-to dessert. Price: Approx Rs. 60 each
6.    Banoffie Pie at Theobroma: If desserts had to have vintage chic banoffie would top the grade. It’s got toffee, banana, cream and biscuit all rolled into hearty goodness. For the longest time we looked no further than the Mocambo version we have featured earlier in our Love Bite Section but Theobroma offers a delightful alternative though be warned, it’s a meal in itself and definitely not for the calorie conscious! Price: Rs. 120 approx

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Banoffie Pie                                                                             Photo - Mariam Mamaji

7.    Crème Brulee at Indigo: We realize we run the risk of sounding like Indigo groupies but they are a restaurant after our heart; they do the basics well and never, never screw them up, no matter how many years go by! Crème brulee is the Chanel LBD of desserts, simple at one level yet deceptively difficult to get right. The consistency can range from runny to clotted unless one masters the even thickness that Indigo has. Ditto for the perfect layer of caramelized sugar, not too thick or thin and the most crucial, real vanilla beans and this one is a head turner for all ages. Price: Rs. 400 approx


8.    Dulce de Leche at Indigo: A lot of people don’t think ice cream qualifies as a bona fide dessert given our run-ins with commercial ices since childhood. Hence for these folks we suggest mandatory samplings of the dulce de leche ice-cream at Indigo & Indigo Deli which is basically thickened caramelized milk frozen to ice cream; Italian kulfi if you will! Price: Rs.350 approx


9.    Chocolate Cigar with Prunes & Armagnac Ice-Cream at Joss: This is another must-try which includes a rich log of chocolate set off by the ice-cream laced with juicy prunes and the intoxicating whiffs of Armagnac cognac; this is one dessert meant for collective pleasures, both sharing and swooning! Price: Rs. 350 approx
10.Carrot Cake at Kala Ghoda Café: We secretly take credit for ‘discovering’ KGC which we consider Bombay’s best café enough said. Whether it’s their signature salad, their artisanal bread or their organic coffees everything is exemplary sans frills. And their carrot cake is genius on a plate, a huge hunk of moist nutty goodness served with the most original accompaniment of orange clotted cream. To find out what the carrot does with the cream on the palate, this dessert is better eaten than described: Price: Rs. 150 approx
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Carrot Cake                                                                              Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Going Places: Suzette

GPS:Atlanta Building, Nariman Point, Mumbai - 21
Tring Tring:+91-22-22800055
In & Out: 8:30am – 10:30 pm Monday - Saturday
Damages: Rs.1000/- for a meal for two without alcohol
Must-Order: Nutella & Banana Crepe with Grated Coconut
Umami Quotient:  Sweet
Mariam and I get asked all the time how we manage to eat so much to write about without becoming XXL missies! The thing which few seem to get is that good food is part of our lives, our daily schedule if you will. While some of our sojourns are planned evening, many are off the cuff encounters en route work, meetings and holidays. Thus, Mariam’s rendezvous with Nariman Point’s best kept secret Suzette was all in a day’s work. A hot afternoon in the business district warranted for a refueling stop and she made her way to the newish French creperie opened by a trio of French friends looking to infuse  a spot of chic c’est la vie into manic Mumbai.
Bar-O-Meter
Since it was too hot for a drink and Suzette is a teetotaler anyway Mariam and her assistant (not quite Carrie Bradshaw but close!) settled for her favourite fresh lime water which she is very picky about and a pineapple and mint juice. Both passed with flying colours and the mint in the juice was especially ingenious as it tamped down the tartness of the pineapple and upped the refresh quotient.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Pineapple juice.                                                             Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Palate
Thirst quenched they started off on the Poulet Salad, a proper heat buster with grilled chicken, rocket and mushrooms doused in a chilled avalanche of minty yoghurt loaded with garlic and crunchy lettuce. Each mouthful was delish and satisfying and a perfect primer for the mains.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Poulet Salad                                                                                                                                          Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Ever since Mariam heard the crepes were made with imported buckwheat, she dunked her flimsy guilt at the doorway and dug into the healthy carbs with guilt-free gusto. The Provence Crepe with olive tapenade, Provencal herbs, and sundried tomatoes was a bit of a sober earth call with no discernible flavor or taste and not much hint of tapenade either. However the Complete Crepe that followed lived up to its short and effective name. Loaded with chicken bacon, emmenthal and an egg of choice (Mariam being true to umami chose hers sunny side up!), it was hearty, full-bodied with the perfect balance of meat, cheese and eggs to complete a meal (pun unintended!).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Complete                                                                                                                                              Photo - Mariam Mamaji

While the sweet crepes are made with regular flour, desserts have a life of their own and they are exempt from silly diet rules so Mariam dutifully capitulated to her sweet teeth and went for gold aka the Banana & Nutella Crepes with Grated Coconut. To say it was sinful, creamy, just rightly sweetened and soft and oh-so-satisfying would be a cliché. We’ll just settle for a mouthful of umami!
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
  Chocolate Crepe                                                                                                                                  Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Crowd v/s Company
if there ever was a Mumbai establishment that could evangelize its smallness it would have to be Suzette. The tiny interior and even tinier porch is redeemed by its simple classy lines, dark wood, quirky paper linen and a touch of class. It’s a great breakfast joint or even a working lunch. Whether you want to quickly catch up for a bite post work or stroll in for an early post-dinner coffee Suzette is your best bet, because in this case small is truly beautiful.

Comeback Quotient
When we want to keep things unofficial despite being in Bombay’s original office district you’ll be sure to find us divvying up the crepes and gossip here!



Going Places: Chez Vous

GPS:Shop no: 6 & 7, Cambata Building (Eros Cinema Bldg) , 42, Maharshi Karve Road, Churchgate, Mumbai - 400020.
Tring Tring:+91-99204 09099 / 77383 86339 / 9167759099 / 9167719099
Click:  www.chezvous.co.in
In & Out: 8:30 am – 11:30 pm daily
Damages: Rs.4000/- for a meal for two without alcohol (3 courses)
Must-Order: Les Oeufs Mourettes
Umami Quotient:  Salty
We don’t know if there is a term for this phenomenon but have you ever noticed that every time you have a completely new experience for the first time ever, something similar occurs again in a short span of time? Hence the totally unplanned back-to-back lowdown on Mumbai’s only two noteworthy French eateries –Suzette last week and now CV! Anyone who has grown up in Bombay will always have memories of Sundance Café (which Suzette finally replaced) – whether its juicy burgers or stale fries – simply because it was always there! A comforting backdrop to 30-rupees movies at Eros and street side book shopping at neighbouring Flora Fountain. CV will perhaps always have to live tinged by a hint of nostalgia but you know that French phrase, c’est la vie!
Bar-o-meter
Since Mariam has recently returned from Prague with green hued absinthe-tinted memories and I have just dipped my toes into the Absinthe Bar at Antibes we reluctantly resisted an encore at CV whose Absinthe A La Fontaine lovingly recreates the proper way to drink this magic potion by pouring it through a sugar cube and then flaming the cube and dissolving it in cold water and adding to the absinthe to water down its fire . . . somewhat! But aficionados in Bombay tell us CVs version is worth a shot. What I am personally piqued by is the breakfast cocktail Champagne PMU (pick me up!) comprising bubbly, grenadine, cognac and orange juice – both because I love bubbly and I love the French practice of drinking in the morning – its almost as terribly and timelessly chic as a Chanel LBD!


Palate
Since Mariam and I hadn’t been out for a proper dinner a la deux for a while we decided to go the whole hog (pun intended!) with the 3-course tasting menu comprising a surprise appetizer, starter, main and a dessert. And let us tell you first off, the portions are much larger than a tasting portion so opt for this only if you’re hungry enough to eat a horse! 

While the surprise amuse bouche was a mystery blend of herbs and what we suspect was mashed pumpkin, the starters were surefire winners. I loved the Crab Farci a la Creole which had a crab shell stuffed with minced crab meat softened with coconut milk, oodles of garlic and Cajun spices accompanied by a flavourful crushed chili sauce. The flavours burst in pomp and fury inside my mouth with the coconut milk bringing hints of East Asian cuisine to the fore. Given our love for meat and eggs the Oeufs Meurettes hit our umami spot with poached eggs doused in red wine accompanied by smoky grilled bacon, a crust of bread and oh-so-sinful lardons (pork fat!). Each morsel was intensely flavourful with the wine and bacon playing up the texture of the eggs. Mariam and I stopped our intense conversation on the state of modern marriages to ooh and aah over this culinary beauty at every bite.


Buoyed by the superb starters we couldn’t wait for the mains to arrive. However this was a sobering course. The classic Coq Au Vin, a braised chicken stew cooked in red wine with mushrooms, garlic, bacon and once again some lardon was rather comme-ci comme-ca.  While the chicken was excellently moist, tender and flavoured, the sauce could have been any rich brown gravy dripping butter and fat (and a tad much salt). The finer flavours were lost on us. The minute Mariam and I see Chateaubriand on a menu we look no further and hence it was a given that we would go for the Chateaubriand Sauce Foie Gras with the prime beef fillet roasted medium rare with truffle oil and foie gras. The beef though cooked to instruction was dry on the inside despite being pink and once again the sauce was a rich generic brown base, making us suspect that the recipes here at CV had been boosted up from their French sparseness to suit robust Indian palates. A pity really since the food would be great even without these touches of localization. 

Dessert however lifted our spirits once again . . . as they always do! The Fondant Bernard Caillebaut with 72% dark chocolate fondant and vanilla ice cream meant serious business; it was dark, dense, only slightly sweet and very rich as all self-respecting chocolate desserts should be. Setting off the intensity perfectly was the frothy and dainty Tarte Aux Fruits with a moist and delicate almond base, light-as-air whipped cream and a frond of seasonal fruit slices finishing it off.

Crowd v/s Company
We’re a bit torn by CV’s interiors. While the wrought iron lamps and cornices are all very French corner bistro, the cold white tiles remind us of a diner. And though they have done away with the ghastly white neon lighting, the crowded tables on the mezzanine are almost a total replica of Sundance days albeit with an absinthe-hued studded green leather sofa to remind us of all things French. And in this cramped space they have also carved a corner for live performances! While that’s a commendable effort I am not quite sure if it’s practical given their paucity of space. And one small grouse; if you’re going to feed us that much lardons, its your moral duty to make sure the aircon is in shipshape! We found ourselves profusely perspiring and were relieved when the party of six at the next table echoed our sweaty concerns. A slight upping in the tonnage is required we suspect? Of course the affable host Frederic with his warm personal touch and solicitous concern for every course consumed by every table is a great reminder of the personal chef-run cafes of Europe and a lovely homely touch.


Comeback Quotient
We’re beginning to see the wisdom of going French in bites and sips rather than the whole hog. So if its eggs Florentine, eggs Meurettes, crepes or some of that chic Champagne PMU we’re craving, you might spot us there for breakfast animatedly discussing all things men, women and what lies between them. If that’s not French, what is?



San Churros

GPS: Shop No. 11, Silver Pearl, opp. Red Box Café,  Waterfield Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai - 50
Tring Tring: +91-22- 26400044
Click:  www.sanchurro.com
In & Out: 9:00 am – 12 midnight
Damages: Rs.500/- for a meal for two
Must-Order: Azteca Hot Chocolate
Umami Quotient:  Sour

We’ve been curious about San Churros ever since it opened but equally dreading going there given the perma diet we’re on. Somehow endless chocolate wouldn’t fly past our regimens we were sure yet SC had to be sampled, diet be damned! We found the perfect opportunity on a  buzzing Saturday afternoon accompanied by two friends, one of whom was fresh down from the US and somewhat an expert on comforting n’ unhealthy chain restaurant fare!

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.


Fist off, the menu overwhelmed us, it was all chocolate and lots of it! The descriptions and quantities transported us to middle America with humungous proportions and no regard for health or moderation. Aah well, when in Rome et al . . ! we scoured the menu and settled for the Azteca hot chocolate with cinnamon and chili and two of their signature desserts viz Berry Bizcocho with chocolate, strawberries, chocolate sauce and custard and the Churromiso (a play on tiramisu as we belatedly discovered!) a concoction of churros, whipped coffee, mascarpone, hot chocolate, cinnamon and cocoa powder. We were confident that despite the calorie overlay the chocolatey wonders would transport us into blissville. We were of course woefully mistaken.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.


The Azteca despite its beguiling rich thickness had a strange watery aftertaste which we found really difficuly to associate with the consistency. Also the spicy ending was perhaps too overpowering for the humid Mumbai weather. The Churromiso was a basic tiramisu, light n’ pleasant enough and not oversweet, with a churro perched dangerously across the bowl. The Bizcocho though was a sugar overload! There was a mysteriously hard layer as we dug our spoons in that refused to crack under pressure. Nougat we finally concluded as we struggled to scrape bits out. However the chocolate, nougat and custard were all robustly sweet which combined on the palate was enough to make us go off sugar for a weekend! The slight tart of the strawberries could do little to counter this overlay.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Its didn’t help as the floor manager blandly parroted ‘company policy’ of not allowing photographs of the interiors even when we mentioned would were going to writing about SC, of our own volition and expense! Typical of how brands travel the world, but local attitudes are hard to beat. However given the packed house SC was catering to, we concluded sadly that perhaps we were minorities in the SC target audience. People were evidently lapping up the deep-fried sugary delights being served. It led us to conclude that perhaps aspirational urban middle class consumers are the same worldwide. At that moment we could certainly see no difference between the American supersize-me populace and our desi folks. Hmm point to contemplate over . . .
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

 
We’d conclude that if you’re in the vicinity and tired of trying myriad clothes in all the export-surplus stores around, SC is perfect as a sugarfix break. The regular hot chocolate would be your best bet if not the savoury sandwiches; just remember to share the spoils if you don’t want a sucrose OD!
The authors have a personal blog called, MaDe in Umami

Smokehouse Deli

PS: Shop no c-90G, Phoenix Mills Compound, 46, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai - 13
Tring: +91-22- 65619618/24933222
Click:  www.impresario.in (mother website)
In & Out: 12 noon – 12 midnight daily
Damages: Rs.2500/- for a meal for two with alcohol
Must-Order: Lemon Dill Cambodian Basa
Umami Quotient:  Sweet
One hot afternoon Mariam and I teetered dangerously close to resembling our bête noires – fro-frou Ladies Who Lunch (LWL) all thanks to Riyaaz’s newest den of gourmet iniquities Smokehouse Deli newly opened at Phoenix Mills. We shopped for shoes we didn’t need, gossiped about people we know only too well, drank sangrias while we waited for our tables and were altogether delightfully carefree and timeless, which is a rare luxury for both of us. 
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji
 Bar-O-Meter
Since I had dropped in for a quick dekko of SMD during one of its opening brunches I had already sampled the Melon Mojitos and Tangerine Caipirojkas which both passed the coolness muster for this hot December. And the aforementioned Red Wine Sangria was a perfectly-pitched classic with lethal amounts of wine and especially wine-soaked fruits which had us all hazy and giggly in 20 minutes flat with a single glass! To come off our ‘high’ perch we sampled Cucumber Basil Lavender Lemonade was delightfully fresh with a hint of herb and flower and reminded us of a striped awning on a sunny porch – absolutely recommended for a post-shopping cool-off!
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji
Palate
Since we always harbor honorable intentions of eating healthy, especially now with a wedding around the corner (mine!) we started off with the Baby Spinach salad with mustard onions, sesame granola and smoked chicken.  The spinach was surprisingly fresh given the wilted bundles we get to buy from the veggie vendors and the mayo had a lovely zing to it. However the mustard on the onions was merrily AWOL and the chunky and sweet granola stood out like a sore thumb . we suspect they tried a spin on caramelized walnuts often seen in fig and arugula salads but the granola was simply too sweet to mesh in with the rest of the salad. Next up was our evergreen favourite eggs – Truffle Oil Scented Scrambled Eggs with warm croissants. The dish arrived fluffy and delish with a softly flaking croissant. However we sniffed around for the truffles in vain (much like the pigs!) till we asked the waiter and realized he had misheard our order and got us the version without the truffle oil! Oink, sigh! As the we got more sated, we pulled out the big guns. For Mariam it was a gourmet spin on her favourite street food – the hotdog – with German wurstel ensconced in grain mustard and onion relish. While the sausage was beautifully smoked and married to some proper pungent mustard the mayo was a tad unnecessary and in a bout of belated guilt, we munched on the sausage sans the bun to keep some semblance of a carb count! However that went out of the window with our next order, My Boss’s Style Spaghetti. This was perhaps one of the meanest renditions of a lipsmackingly good aglio olio we’ve had a while with a generous lashing of olive oil muddled with chili flakes, and ground parmesan. We almost forgot that the waiter had muddled our order (again!) and gotten us the vegetarian version instead of the tenderloin rosemary meatballs we’d ordered it with. Aah well, the fact that we enjoyed it nonetheless is enough testament to its taste! However the piece the resistance of the main course was the Cambodian Lemon Dill Basa I had sampled during the opening brunch. The fish was unbelievably fresh and plump (a shot of fish Botox perhaps?) and accompanied very subtly with a thin layer of citrus n’ herb emulsion. While we were too full for desserts our sharp eyes spied the delish Cakes in a Jar from Country of Origin that we have reviewed earlier. A great take-home option for teatime sins we say!
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji


 Crowd V/s Company
We simply love the design mantra of SMD! The clean wood floors, white walls and high ceilings with soft spotlights and impish line drawings running through the wall art, not to mention the sideboards with chunky white crockery all remind us of a study straight out of 19th century Britain a la Enid Blyton/Peter Pan. And given that besides Indigo Deli there was really no other credible dining option in Phoenix Mills, the packed room on the second day of opening is proof of how sorely it fills a rather large gap.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Photo - Mariam Mamaji
 Comeback Quotient
When we want to take out-station visitors to an effortlessly stylish eatery . . . or just get together to discuss the vagaries of love and other demons you might find us sipping on our Sangrias at the corner table!
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Going Places: The Wedding Feast @ Indigo

GPS: 4 Mandlik Rd, Colaba
Click:  http://www.foodindigo.com/
In & Out: 12pm - 3pm and 6pm - 1.15am
Damages: Rs.2000/- per person inclusive of an open bar (domestic)
Must-Order: Everything!
Umami Quotient:  Umami
December was a month of multiple gastronomic sins all related to matters of the heart viz. my wedding! There were a slew of great meals spread across Thai Pavilion, Table, Souk, Yauatcha, and Ankur in Bombay and equal gorging in the gourmand hotels, streets and clubs of Kolkata. But it all climaxed in a lamplit terrace night laced with kiwi margaritas, friends past and present and a feast fit for gods. And of course this perfection could only happen at the place, which is the umami girls’ not-so-secret soft spot - the original and only Indigo! And since D-Day was no time to sit and pontificate on matters of the palate we did a tasting menu at a trial dinner a month earlier and lived to tell the tale!

Palate
Since there was going to be an indecent amount of eating we abstained from pleasures of the spirit in favour of Bombay’s best fresh lime soda. Mariam is a connoisseur and obsessively tries this basic cooler across city restaurants to be disappointed at most times so when she endorses  the Indigo version we all sit up and drink! We were accompanied by 3 other friends which included a graphic designer, a TV executive and an Indian Navy man all of who had a fine taste in all things fine and loved a good chat to accompany a good meal. 

The vegetarian starters kicked off with the Peppery Mushroom & Parmesan Fondue. The mushrooms were large, juicy and filled with just the right amount of cheese (aka not overdone Cream Center proportions!) and segued smoothly into the next starter, the Goat Cheese Gnocchi in Pink Peppercorn and Truffle Oil. We have to say we love goat cheese and truffle oil is fast becoming our favourite sin and gnocchi was so airy and the flavor so delicate that we forgot all about our oath to not do pastas at dinner (good for us, the main course had some more orgasm-inducing versions!). Next came the parade of bite-sized carnivorous pleasures. The Tamarind Beef Roulade with Cornichons & Sweet Soya Dip was a little waltz between all things sweet and sour with the tender beef playing an admirable conductor. The Charmoula Grilled Prawns, which appear on many menus across the city, were distinguished by their briny freshness and the piquant flavours of the charmoula. Ditto for the Cajun fish tikka, which was distinguished by the stunningly fresh and fleshy rawas. 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Peppery Mushroom & Parmesan Fondue                                                    Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Goat Cheese Gnocchi in Pink Peppercorn and Truffle Oil           Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Charmoula Grilled Prawns                                                                       Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Tamarind Beef Roulade with Cornichons & Sweet Soya Dip                     Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Cajun fish tikka                                                                                            Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Since we love artichokes the next salad of Artichokes & Roasted Peppers with Palm Hearts in Orange Tarragon Dressing was a burst of freshness, almost an amuse bouche to clear our palate with the citrus tang and get us ready for the mains to follow. The Prawn Squid & Mussel Salad with Marinated Tomatoes, Mint & Capers is a slice of the Mediterranean seaside for all pescetarians and is best enjoyed with a crusty slice of bread dipped in olive oil.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Artichokes & Peppers with Palm Hearts in Orange Tarragon Dressing     Photo - Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Prawn Squid & Mussel Salad                                                                   Photo - Mariam Mamaji

The mains started with Navy guy’s favourite staple, chicken! Most times we don’t understand the big deal about a bland poultry-raised piece of almost-meat but the Teriyaki Chicken With Three Mushrooms & Crispy Leeks were a revelation in what chicken can be if raised right and cooked right. It was pink, juicy and dripping with smoky miso reminiscences. We were already well full but we were just halfway through the meal (which was being faithfully documented and uploaded in real time on Facebook thanks to the BB addict TV girl!). Next stop was the Cajun Prawns with Smoked Peppers, Sundried Tomatoes and Fennel Cream. Once again the unreliably juicy prawns were a delightful bite though the charmoula blitzed the gentle fennel cream into obscurity. We suggested a feistier accompanying artiste for the wedding party. Last came the unusual suspect of buffet menus – lamb – with the Baby Lamb Confit with Root Vegetables & Shallots in Rosemary Sauce. Not only was the lamb tender and flaking at the fork the sauce was a light brown concoction with the rosemary weaving fantasies through the slightly charred veggies. An absolute dark horse this one!
Heaving and grunting under the gastronomic onslaught we ploughed on nonetheless because the next stop was the pastas, which were going to be served at the live pasta station. While the Tomato & Cream ravioli in Sage Cream was full-bodied and flavoursome in its own right the piece the resistance was the Mushroom Ravioli in Porcini Cream with succulent porcini dunked in a lightly creamy & herby sauce. This is the stuff dream pasta is made of!

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Teriyaki Chicken                                                                                       Photo - Mariam Mamaji
    

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Baby Lamb Confit                                                                                       Photo - Mariam Mamaji
    
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Tomato & Cream ravioli in Sage Cream                                                    Photo - Mariam Mamaji
    

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Mushroom Ravioli in Porcini Cream                                                         Photo - Mariam Mamaji
    

Yes it does sound physically impossible to eat anymore but our band of six weren’t ready to lay down the gauntlet especially since all of us are dessert fiends on our own way. The Baileys Cheesecake was lashed with generous swills of liqueur and densely creamy to bite but the Carrot & Walnut Cake with Peach frosting hit the G Spot (greed of course!) given our love for carrot cakes (check our post on Top Ten Desserts in Bombay). The cake was moist and nutty just like a good homemade variant with the frothy peach frosting providing the perfect tangy contrast. D Day also served my alltime favourite handmade ice cream the sinful Dulce de Leche we have featured earlier.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Baileys Cheesecake                                                                                 Photo - Mariam Mamaji
    

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Carrot & Walnut Cake                                                                             Photo - Mariam Mamaji
    

Crowd V/s Company
Even as a la carte dining destinations go Indigo manages to be classy yet cozy, private yet warm, and effortlessly romantic whether one is having a casual post-dinner drink at the bar, a shopper’s lunch on the ground level or a date on the terrace. But as a wedding venue the terrace and adjoining bar exceeded all expectations. Sparkling with lamps, interspersed with white flowers (which especially stand out in the stark black bar) and just the right size for 120 odd guests, Indigo played perfect host to the wedding. No guest was ever without a drink or a bite, there was music for all tastes, be it the gentle ambient score on the verandah or the throbbing Bollywood beats in the black bar. With guests spanning ages of 5 to 70 it’s not easy to please everyone but photographs seem to say that we succeeded!
Comeback Quotient
If it’s a classy yet intimate get-together you want to put together – be it birthdays, anniversaries, engagements or a general celebration of la dolce vita we have three words for you – Do The Indigo!

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Going Places: Ankur


GPS: Meadows House, MP Shetty Marg, Fort, (behind BSE Bldg), Mumbai - 1
Tring: +91-22- 22654194, 22630193
Click:  www.who?
In & Out: 12 noon – 3pm & &:30 – 11:30pm daily
Damages: Rs.2500/- for a meal for two with alcohol
Must-Order: Mutton Ajadina with Neer Dosa
Umami Quotient:  Umami

We like to steer our palates off the beaten track so that they don’t fall into populist patterns. And in the process we end up discovering unlikely heroes who remain our favourites no matter how many new-fandangle superstars come into town! Ankur is one of those old-is-gold places, which wins our vote above the Trishna, Mahesh and Gazalees of the world. It has no branches, its discreetly tucked away behind Flora Fountain, its better done up then all the competition (no faux carved ceilings, crawling crabs in glass aquariums!) and does south Indian fare with coastal Karnatakan touch bypassing Mangalore altogether. So when its time to take out new friends and old for a dinner in town we can think of no better option!

Palate
When it comes to seafood we don’t pull any punches. We expect to eat heavy and go the full hog. Even the visiting foreigners are warned that this is going to be a long, heavy and occasionally spicy affair. So we dive straight into the starters with the Fish Tikka, which is a superb version of the classic with fleshy rawas cubes encrusted with pepper and tandoored to perfection. The Pomfret Pudina (my favourite version) is marinated in a fresh minty reduction redolent of coriander and coconut and flaking off the bone.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Fish Tikka                                                                                                                                                     Photos: Mariam Mamaji


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Tandoori Pomfret                                                                                                                                         Photos: Mariam Mamaji

 Then follow a brief debate on clams vs squid and harder to find fresh clams win to vote as we go in for Clams Classic with butter pepper garlic – lots of crushed garlic, just a hint of butter and unbelievably juicy clams. Xmas excesses be damned, gora and desis alike are digging in all fingers and thumbs by this point. Conversation is swinging from shopping sprees to ‘good Indian girls’ and all sorts of appetites are being whipped up to a storm! No visit to Ankur is complete without the Kerala prawns, which are rubbed with dry spices and grilled to juicy perfection and the spice is well calibrated to excite but not exasperate.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Clams Butter Pepper Garlic                                                                                                                       Photos: Mariam Mamaji


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Kerala Prawns                                                                                                                                                 Photo: Mariam Mamaji

Main course enters in style. The Chicken Kundapur is in its traditional spicy avatar with the flavor of the roasted masalas set off in rich tomato gravy. The Mutton Ajadina follows next with coarse ground spices alongwith grated coconut in dry gravy which pairs admirably with soft cushiony neer dosas, which go down quicker than we can blink! 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Chicken Kundapur                                                                                                                                         Photo: Mariam Mamaji

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Mutton Ajadina                                                                                                                                              Photo: Mariam Mamaji

Though it’s not theoretically possible to meet more, we plunder on to the Crab Gassi like any respectably pescetarian would! While this is a staple dish of any indian seafood restaurant Ankur manages to control the spic, bring the flavours to the fore and serves medium size crabs which are just right.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Neer Dosa                                                                                                                                                        Photo: Mariam Mamaji



As we groan under the goodies the owner reveals the secret of the distinctive taste of the Ankur food, all the spices are sourced directly from his home in Karnataka and coarse ground to keep the texture fresh and intact which pops up on our palate ever so often with each passing dish. That dry paan near the exit is much needed as we stagger out though one of Volga’s saada paans should aid digestion remarkably well too!

Crowd v/s Company
As we said earlier, Ankur aesthetics are heads and shoulders above its relative peers the interiors are done up like a cosy Keralite home with dark wood paneling, wooden beams on the ceiling and a buzz that is busy but not claustrophobic (though we suggest sitting downstairs compared to the slightly cramped mezzanine). The bar is well equipped and well priced like most old-world restaurants if anyone fancies a digestif to wash down a hearty meal.

Comeback Quotient
If its discernible fresh flavours of Indian seafood that you’re looking for, or simply to entertain out of city guests in a hidden Bombay gem look no further than Ankur we suggest!



Going Places: Cafe Zoe

GPS: Mathuradas Mills Compound
126 N. M. Joshi Marg
Lower Parel
Tring: 022-2490 2065
In & Out: Monday to Sunday, 7.30am to 1.30am
Damages: Rs 3,000 approximately for a meal for 2 with a glass of wine
Must-Order:Scrambled Eggs in Truffle Oil on Toast
Umami Quotient:  Salty

They say all roads lead to god. Maybe gluttony isn’t divine but once in a while its equally satisfying when Mariam and I take separate paths to reach the same conclusion. We both have acutely tuned antennae to any new place within our GPS aka Juhu and southwards so when we bumped into Chef Viraf and Jeremie at the Irish Pub over a few beers in the first week of January and heard about their latest baby Zoe we couldn’t wait to get there. However in the meanwhile I hopped over to London to kick-start my new married life (ergo warning: there will now be reviews from the food capital as well to help all our intrepid travellers to suss out the best places to chow!) and Mariam popped over to Zoe with a set of her friends while I made my trip a month back when I was visiting Bombay. This review is an amalgamation of the two visits.

Bar-O-Meter
While my visit happened to be on one of the election dry days Mariam and her posse got luckier. They eschewed the cocktails for a bottle of Vallonne and were pleasantly surprised as Jeremie recommended this pocket-friendly domestic red wine over one of their imported selections. A classy touch never fails to impress us! However our virgin run-ins with their Fresh Lime Soda was a visit to the sugar factory and one of the most cloying versions we’ve ever had. We suggest they straighten out this basic cooler ASAP.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
The Bar                                                                                                                                                 Photo- Mariam Mamaji


Palate
For starters we like to keep it light so we had some misgiving about the waiter’s vociferous recommendation of the Aranchani and when it came our worst fears were proved right; it was mashed veggies filled with cheese and deep fried aka empty calories we try to avoid like crazy! While heavy drinkers might appreciate this greasy lining its not our cup of tea. 



However the Chicken Liver Pate which came next soothed us considerably. This is Chef Viraf’s signature dish, which we have followed with our palates from the erstwhile Saltwater Grill to Table and now in Zoe. Its smooth and creamy with none of the sanguine aftertaste that badly made pate can have. However they seem to be rather parsimonious with the Melba Toast and refused us a few extra when ours got over! Scrimp on toast anyone? 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Chicken liver pate                                                                                                                               Photo- Mariam Mamaji


The Arugula Salad was perfectly fresh and crisp with a lovely peppery sweet sauce that set off the rocket leaves perfectly. Boldened by this we next ordered the Crab n Celery Salad. While it was delightfully fresh and crisp again the glass jar just had one top layer of crabmeat and an entire mattress of celery, which we had to chimp through once the crab got done (rather quickly). Scrimping again? 

My husband for all his healthy eating ways has some strange fascination for pronouncedly junk food and one of them is Chicken Wings. He jumps at every opportunity to have them and needless to say we ordered them. Zoe’s version was spicy and full-bodied with a nice punch at the end, which goes well with cocktails or a glass of robust red wine.

However a Bengali and their eggs cant be parted for long (much like the French who I think Bengalis are separated at birth from!) and the Truffle Scrambled Eggs on Toast soon found their way to our table. Not only was the scramble perfect – fluffy, smooth and cooked without being dry, they were very generous with lashings of truffle oil that elevated this simple breakfast dish to divine proportions. We immediately ordered seconds, which is proof enough of its excellence.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
  Seafood Provincial                                                                                                                           Photo- Mariam Mamaji

While me and my gang made a meal of starters alone, Mariam’s party proceeded to mains. Since they had a couple of vegetarians amongst them it was a great excuse to try out the otherwise neglected part of the menu. The Meatless Wellington was a great version of the English beef version - a crisp phyllo pastry stuffed with cottage cheese and grilled veggies, heavy but totally worth every bite. Even the Pumpkin Risotto which followed was a very pleasant veggie option, not over-cheesed and creamed but rather with the sweetness of the pumpkin adding a delicately warm flavor to the risotto.

For the carnivores there were some obvious choices. The Seafood Provincial was a delightful mix of crab, clams, squid, prawns and fish in a delightful broth flavoured with garlic and herbs. Dip in some crusty bread and you’re good to go. However our other favourite – the steak – didn’t fare quite so favourably. Despite ordering a medium rare version Mariam got an ice-cold well-done version and even when they replaced it, the second version lacked the juicy yet cooked texture that comes from a good piece of meat done on a good grill.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Grilled Steak                                                                                                                                      Photo- Mariam Mamaji



Dessert saved the day somewhat since our favourite Crème Brulee was done perfectly, smooth and rich but without the eggy aftertaste and a perfect crisp layer of caramel to top it off. Mariam’s other bête noire is the perfect cup of Espresso which Bombay restaurants often fail to live up to (too cold, too weak, too blah) but Zoe hit bullseye with their Double Espresso matching the right temperature with the right amount of coffee to create the perfect digestif. 

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Creme Brulee                                                                                                                                  Photo- Mariam Mamaji


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Double Espresso                                                                                                                                   Photo- Mariam Mamaji


Crowd v/s Company
The unassuming entrance ensconced inside Todi Mills (home to Blue Frog and Busaba) opens into a huge loft-like space with high industrial ceilings, exposed bricks and pipes, blackened metal trimmings and in the midst of it raised couch seating in pleasant pastels. The atmosphere is buzzing yet relaxed with the usual mix of post-work folks unwinding over a drink and bite. Though the ambience does lend itself to tentative first dates and old friend reunions too with it’s seating which is spaced out without being intimidating.



Comeback Quotient
Zoe joins the league of (extra)ordinary restaurants in the vicinity viz. Indigo Deli and Smokehouse Deli and gets promptly added to our list of rendezvous joints, especially a pre-dinner before a good Blue Frog gig!

Going Places: 36 Oak & Barley


36 Oak & Barley
GPS: 76, August Kranti Marg, Gowalia Tank, Mumbai - 36
Tring Tring: +912223811010/23880001
Click:  www.36ob.com
In & Out: 12 noon – 1:00am
Damages: Rs.2500 for a meal for two without alcohol
Must-Order: Mushroom Dumpling in Shitake Broth
Umami Quotient:  Salty

The most notable change when you walk into the spacious and woodsy 36O&B, (which happened to be one of our fave low-key hangout joints, East earlier) is in the owner, Nachiket Shetye. While the restaurant hasn’t changed hands since its Nish avatar, Nachiket has lost nearly 60% of his former self with a dazzling weight loss which had Mariam and me reeling in envy and nearly rethinking our copious order! Especially when he mentioned that he had done away with carbs altogether for the past 18 months to shed 35 odd kilos! But then of course umami prevailed and we were back to eating and gossiping while silently admitting that weight loss is something that happens to other people!

Palate
Since Mariam was working and I was trying to be good we eschewed the bar menu and went for virgins instead. As I waited for Mariam to navigate her way through traffic I stuck to The Girl who Played with Fire (girls like us!) and their Vegetable Juice of the Day which was a sharp and yummy blend of apple, beetroot, celery and ginger. It was thick, frothy and filled with fresh herby goodness though it was strangely served warm. Though I did request for some ice to cool it I wondered why it didn’t come chilled already.

By the time M turned up we were dying of hunger and quickly went for some salads and starters and subconsciously chose their Asian offerings (East hangover!). The Papaya Bell Pepper & Bean Salad with peanuts in a honey chilli lime dressing was impossibly crunchy and fresh with a peppery tang that had sweetness and fire in equal measure. It perked up our palates properly for the remaining courses. The Mushroom Dumplings in Shitake Broth was another portion of perfection with the most delicate dumplings ever filled with mushroom bits and set off by a miso flavoured shitake broth that had all the earthy flavours of this distinctive mushroom. The dumpling skin was the softest we have had so far (Yauatcha notwithstanding) and we almost forgot we were having a vegetarian dish altogether, so delish were the flavors.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Raw Papaya Salad                                                                                     Photo Courtesy: Mariam Mamaji


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Shitake Mushroom Dumpling                                                                                                  Photo Courtesy: Mariam Mamaji                                 


We then crossed over from Asia to America and went straight for the Buffalo Sliders, two mini beef burgers with tomato lettuce and mustard. While we were happy they omitted the mayo (we happen to completely ignore store-bought mayo every time we come face-to-face with any!), the patty was clearly a frozen one and the mustard overshadowed the flavor of the meat altogether. While it wasn’t disastrous by far, we will avoid this one when we come back to O&B next time round.


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Buffalo Sliders                                                                                                                             Photo Courtesy: Mariam Mamaji

However the mains perked up our spirits once again. Since Mariam had recently read somewhere that the influx of Vietnamese Basa in the city was due to trade dumping of Basa bred in dubious polluted water inlets in Vietnam, we bypassed it for the Barramundi in Kasundi Cream instead. The fish was firm, plump and coated with creamy kasundi and a hint of another subtle mystery flavor, which was soon revealed to be fennel. We were amazed at how the fennel managed to reach our taste buds because usually its such a delicate flavor that it gets overlaid by stronger flavours, especially mustard. Kudos to O&B for managing to keep the taste so distinct!


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Barramundi in Kasundi Cream                                                                                                  Photo Courtesy: Mariam Mamaji

However we were in for a dessert disaster. The list looked promising enough with many options laced with alcohol, and we settled for the Brandied Chocolate Mousse with Prunes. However what we got was a glass full of cream with a thin layer of prunes right in the middle! Digging our spoons in deep yielded cream and more cream and needless to say our palates were soon coated with the greasy gag-inducing layer. Upon asking if this was what we had ordered we were told that the thin layer in the middle was the chocolate and the prunes and all the rest was mascarpone. Cardiac arrest anyone?? We feared for our alimentary canal and soon set this one aside for a green tea (mine) and espresso (Mariam). As you know, M is an espresso fiend and she soon pronounced the O&B version ‘not bad’. Phew!

Crowd V/s Company
Despite trying to position itself as an all-day eatery and café O&B settles for surprisingly dark interiors with a nightclub feel more than a sunny daytime place. The limited source of natural light is downplayed further with dark wood, a black panther hanging over the bar, a dark red wall with dark wood artefacts and an all-black washroom prefaced by a chainmail curtain (sexy in an S&Mish way!). The vast unoccupied floor space further indicates nightclub ambitions (for people to stand around jostling for the bar?), though as most new places this one too has received the patronage of the LWL (Ladies Who Lunch) and should therefore do just fine, especially because it doesn’t have any competition in the neighborhood.




Comeback Quotient
As soon as Nachiket reintroduces their famous Burmese Khao Swye and Malaysian Canai Roti as he has promised we’ll be back to this all-day eatery . . . and pretend it’s a 4pm teatime snack to make everyone happy!